STEVE KURTIAK
Driving Directorate
U.S. Army Combat Readiness/Safety Center
Fort Rucker, Ala.
It’s once again time to start thinking about winterizing your motorcycle — especially if you live in a cold climate such as Fort Drum, New York, or Fort Wainwright, Alaska. For those of us who live in warmer climates, winterizing means adding an extra layer of clothing for those early morning rides to work in December and January and possibly changing the oil viscosity. However, our friends up north may have already stored their street bikes and replaced motorcycling with skiing or riding their snowmobile or all-terrain vehicle.
When it comes to putting your bike in winter hibernation, follow the directions in your motorcycle owner’s manual (MOM). Wash and dry the motorcycle; drain the fuel tank; disconnect the battery by removing the negative cable first; lubricate the clutch and throttle controls; and change fluids, following your MOM’s recommendations. I like to remove the spark plugs and squirt a small amount of lubricant inside each cylinder. Before replacing the spark plug, I crank the engine a few times to spread the oil throughout the cylinder. Lubricating the cylinder like this will help keep the rings from sticking.
If you live in a climate where you can ride during the winter, change your fluids to the viscosity recommended by your MOM. Remember, you’ll have to change your engine fluids more often during the winter because of the buildup of condensation in the oil tank and crankcase. If you ride often enough and long enough to frequently warm the crankcase to normal running temperature, most of the condensation will vaporize and be blown out through the breather. However, if you ride infrequently or only take short trips, you’ll need to change engine fluids more often to get rid of this condensation. The lower the freezing temperature drops, the more frequently you’ll need to change your fluids.
If you have a chain-driven bike, make sure the chain is cleaned and lubricated before winter storage. My own procedure is to remove the chain, lubricate it per specifications and let it soak all winter in a plastic bag. I learned this one the hard way when I had some links rust solid one year. If your bike is belt-driven, then follow the recommended care in your MOM. I also plug the exhaust and other engine openings to keep unwanted critters from hibernating there. Ensure you conspicuously mark everywhere you’ve placed a plug so you don’t forget to remove it come spring. There’s nothing more embarrassing than leaving a rag somewhere (like the carburetor or air filter intake) and not being able to start your bike.
Tires are probably the most overlooked and under-maintained part of any vehicle. Before storing your bike for the winter, make sure tires are properly inflated. If they’re worn, winter might be a good time to start saving for a new set for the spring. I like to get my bike on a stand to unload my suspension and prevent damage to the sidewalls should any of my tires lose air. I realize that may not be possible for some motorcycles; however, if you can, I recommend doing this. Don’t forget to cover your bike to keep the gunk off and make spring cleaning a little easier. Also, a couple of strategically placed mothballs will assist with keeping the varmints away.
When it is time to ride again, follow the removal-from-storage steps your MOM specifies. Remember, take care of your bike and it will take care of you!